Bungalow '23: An Arts & Crafts home improvement journal

Replacing A Radiator Valve

September 27, 2006 – 9:46 pm

There isn’t much that can go wrong with a hot water radiant heating system. It is basically a second plumbing network that just circulates water between the boiler where water is heated, and radiators that release that heat into the rooms. When trouble occurs, one common problem is failure of a radiator valve. Fortunately this problem is easily corrected.

The valve for the radiator in my office has been leaking slightly since we bought the house, allowing water to seep out around the stem leaving ugly rust and scale running where water trickles down the supply pipes. There’s no telling when this tiny leak could suddenly worsen and make a real mess, so I want to deal with it right away. Replacing a radiator valve is a simple plumbing job that took me less than half an hour with the system already drained.

Please note: I am not a plumber and I do not know all the proper terminology for the parts and process described below. These steps worked for me, but follow these instructions at your own risk.

Tools for the Job:

  • Two pipe wrenches
  • Spud wrench
  • Heat gun to loosen paint and expand plumbing joints
  • Teflon tape
  • Plumber’s teflon putty, aka “pipe dope”
  • Coarse steel wool and small metal brush to clean old pipe threads
  • Utility knife to score paint covering plumbing joints
  • New radiator valve (duh)
  • Safety gear: glasses, gloves, respirator if you suspect lead paint

Here’s the broken valve disconnected from the radiator. Note the rust and water scale on the valve and supply pipe. When disconnecting this union joint, remember that the nut is removed toward the radiator, not toward the valve (I’ve made that mistake before). Removal also goes more smoothly if you use the heat gun to expand the outside member of the joint to be unscrewed and then use the utility knife to score any paint that was lapped over the joint.

Old valve disconnected

Next remove the old valve from the supply pipe and insert the spud wrench. Whenever possible, use two pipe wrenches when unscrewing a fitting. Here I used one wrench on the valve to remove it, while I used a second wrench to hold the supply pipe stable. This lessens the chance the pipe will be bent or sheared when the valve is removed. The fitting that connects the valve body to the radiator is called a spud. It is removed using a spud wrench, which looks like a prop for some alien technology from a sci-fi “B” movie. The grooves down the sides of the spud wrench grip a pair of nubs on the interior of the spud when the wrench is inserted.

Spud wrench

Use one of your pipe wrenches with the spud wrench to remove the spud. Be sure to use the heat gun to warm up the radiator so the spud will come out more easily. Even after doing this, removing the spud still took enough torque to radially deform my spud wrench a bit. (Lousy alien technology…)

Removing the spud

With the old valve completely removed, now is the time to clean up any corrosion or paint around the joint and threads. Use a wire brush, steel wool and the utility knife to clean things up a bit. Take care to protect yourself and anyone else in the house from paint chips that may contain lead. Minimize dust spraying the surface with water during any fricton-based paint removal, and vacuum up paint chips and dust with a HEPA-filtered vacuum right away. Disconnect the new spud and nut from the new valve and wrap the spud threads with teflon plumber’s tape. Put a little pipe dope on top of the tape and install the new spud and nut using the spud wrench and pipe wrench. Make sure the nut is on the spud the right way before installing the spud.

New spud installed

Tape and dope the supply pipe threads and then install the new valve body following the two-wrench method used to remove the old valve. Tape and dope the threads of the union fitting between the valve and the spud and then tighten down the union nut. Wipe off any excess pipe dope and celebrate your accomplishment by reinacting your favorite sci-fi movie scene using the spud wrench as your prop: “Khaaaaaaaaan!”

New valve installed

The true test of any plumbing repair is whether it holds water. I’ll have to defer that step just a bit until I have a solution for the radiator I removed from the upstairs bedroom. I may not be completely ready for heating season, but at least I’m making progress.

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  1. 11 Responses to “Replacing A Radiator Valve”

  2. Excellent how-to! One of my supply knobs are broken off in my house and I’m scared to death to do my own fix. I always wondered how those bizarro long wrenches worked too.

    By Patricia W. on Sep 28, 2006

  3. Great job! When we first started working with radiators, it all seemed very intimidating!

    By nadja and sean on Sep 28, 2006

  4. Plumbing intimidation isn’t completely bad. Some friends of ours have a broken radiator valve which a previous owner “repaired” by replacing the worn-out internal valve parts with a carriage bolt and caulk. They wish that PO had been intimidated enough to get help from someone who knew what to do.

    By Josh on Sep 28, 2006

  5. Just curious. Did you have to remove the spud with its union, or could you have reused it and just attached the valve to the existing union not?

    By marvin on Mar 17, 2008

  6. Thanks for the question, Marvin. I suppose it might have been possible to connect the new valve to the old spud and union on the radiator, but I didn’t try this myself. I used the new parts because I knew they fit the thread size for the valve and because it allowed me to get rid of the painted (read: lead hazard) old union.

    By Josh on Mar 17, 2008

  7. So where do you get this type of Spud Wrench? When searching online, “spud wrenches” look like pipe wrenches.

    By John on Nov 11, 2008

  8. I got my spud wrench at my local hardware store. Call around or stop by a hardware store (not a warehouse-style home center) located in a neighborhood of older homes. If they don’t have a spud wrench in stock, the store clerks will probably know where to get one nearby.

    By Josh on Nov 11, 2008

  9. UPDATE: FYI- Apparently there are no more independently owned hardware stores in the Chicago area. They all seem to be part of the Ace chain which does not carry this tool. There is a 150 year old hardware store in Joliet and a Berland’s House of Tools… neither one knew what this was. Local plumbing supply houses are charging between $30 & $50 until I found one that only charged me $20 and it was special order. The tool suppliers don’t carry this either. This is common $15 tool when Googling “Radiator Spud Wrench” however it depends on what part of the country you live in when looking for it locally.

    By John on Nov 13, 2008

  10. What a saga, John! The shop where I got my spud wrench (in stock– no special order) is an Ace Hardware affiliate, but I know from visiting a few different Ace locations in my neighborhood that the stock from store to store can vary greatly. I know I didn’t pay $50 or even $30 for my tool. $15-$20 sounds about right.

    Isn’t it funny that it was more work finding the tool than it will be using it?

    Closed circuit to Chicago hardware stores: you’re missing a sales opportunity in a city full of old houses with radiators.

    P.S. Two years after the repair described in my original post above, the new valve is still working perfectly and the radiator remains drip-free.

    By Josh on Nov 13, 2008

  11. i want to replace a vent valve on a radiator in my house. Unfortunately, the threads on both the old valve, and the radiator itself are stripped. any ideas on how to proceed will be greatly appreciated..

    Ralph

    By Ralph Rodway on Nov 17, 2008

  12. “i want to replace a vent valve on a radiator in my house. Unfortunately, the threads on both the old valve, and the radiator itself are stripped. any ideas on how to proceed will be greatly appreciated..”

    I would drill it out to the next NPT size up and re-tap new pipe threads. Then simply install a reducer bushing and a new vent valve.

    You probably have 1/8″ NPT now. Since pipe sizes are measured from INSIDE the pipe, your hole is not going to be 1/8″. The next NPT size is 1/4″.

    Small pipe thread taps & handles are inexpensive. Just be sure and get the exact size drill bit for that tap size. Also make sure the tap is NPT. Threaded pipe is tapered… regular taps cannot be substituted for NPT taps.

    Use plenty of tapping lubricant and go slowly, backing out often to clear the chips. If you’ve never used a tap in metal, consult a friend with some metal working or machinist experience… taps are brittle and if you’re not careful can break off in the hole.

    And finally, since the threaded hole will be tapered, you can only tap it down to a specified depth.

    here’s a chart:

    http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

    By John on Nov 17, 2008

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