That’s a tough one, Chuck. On a …
Comment posted on How To Replace a Moen Shower Valve Cartridge by Josh
That’s a tough one, Chuck. On a new house with what I assume is a new shower valve, I wouldn’t think the cartridge is to blame. If you are bending parts with a pliers trying to disassemble the valve, you must have missed a step somehow, because there shouldn’t be any mineral build-up, corrosion, or anything to make disassembly difficult.
As for the lack of hot water for the shower, my best guess is a closed valve. If you’ve found and tried shut-off valves right in the shower area, try tracking the pipe further upline looking for a culprit closed valve.
Good luck– let me know how it turns out!
Josh also commented
- Thanks for sharing those tips, Heidi!
- Did you remove the retaining clip, DeLyle? On my faucet, it was small, horseshoe-shaped piece of brass that fits into a slot in the faucet body. In place, all you’ll see is a small brass tab sticking out of the top of the faucet body near where the handle attaches. I couldn’t budge the cartridge until I removed that clip.
- Phyllis, have you tried contacting Moen directly for the correct part and replacement source? Part failure after only nine years in something as infrequently used as an RV suggests a manufacturer defect or warranty issue.
- Thanks for the great comment, Mike. I’m sure other readers will find that cartridge information valuable and I’m glad your repair went well.
- @Kristin- Congratulations on your successful troubleshooting! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out for you.
@Jim- To change the faucet you’ll need the wall opening to at least be big enough for the faucet body to fit through. This may require *carefully* enlarging the opening that is there now. You should be able to find new faucets available with oversized trim rings that will cover the enlarged wall opening. The smartest thing to do would be to research and select your replacement faucet first, then use the new trim ring as a guide to ensure you don’t oversize the wall opening when removing your old faucet.
Recent comments by Josh
- Getting Started Researching Your House’s History
Mike & Adam,You are in good company if you don’t have an abstract for your property. Another place you can turn for historical building and ownership information are the offices for your city and county governments.
Your city’s records department should have information about building permits issued for the property. In addition to the names of owners or contractors, there will be dates and descriptions of the work performed. When I did this for my property, I could see when the boiler was converted from coal to natural gas, and when the tuck-under garage was enlarged to accommodate the longer cars of the 1950s.
Also check with the assessors office at your city or county government office to see if they can share information about the property valuation history and records of previous owners. This should be analogous to the kind of data you would get on an abstract. Who knows? You might even be able to find some of this data on your city or county website.
I hope that helps– good luck!
- Garage Sale Finds
I’ve had the same experience at our sales, Katie. That’s why I try to keep the idea of a fair price in mind. There is a segment of hardcore garage salers that aggressively haggle simply to boost their own profits when they re-sell the items on ebay or craigslist. That may sound like “good business” but it isn’t how I’d like to treat my neighbors. - 2nd Annual Bungalow Blog Tour
That’s cool that you have a Chambers connection, Will. Getting the stove installed has been a backburner (sorry!) project while I try to get the bedroom finished. It looks surprisingly good in my living room.Since you know Chambers, if you happen to come across any pots for the soup well, please let me know, won’t you? I’ve got the baking insert for the thermowell, but none of the special lidded pots.
- House Paint Revealed
Welcome to the neighborhood, Adam! It’s a bit of a thrill to be discovered– say hello next time, if I’m out in the yard. - Replacing A Radiator Valve
Sorry for the delayed reply, Aub. Yes, radiator valves can be used to manage the heat an individual radiator produces. By restricting the flow of new hot water into the radiator you will produce a radiator that is cooler than the others on the system. It’s an inexact process, but closing radiator valves can be useful to zone heat or balance the heat distributionHere’s what I mean: I my house the thermostat is in the center of the main floor on the dining room wall, so the whole heating system turns on or off based on the temperature of that room. If I wanted to save energy by not heating the upper floor bedrooms during the day, I could close their radiator valves in the morning, shut the door to the upstairs, and then open the door and radiator valves again in the evening when I wanted the bedrooms to warm up a bit. But I can’t reverse this at night and close down the main floor radiators because the thermostat is on the main floor (and my pipes could freeze in our delightful Minnesota winters).
If your house is heating unevenly here are some other ideas. If you have an individual room (on the perimeter) that is always too warm, you can dial back the radiator flow to make it cooler. If the rooms on the perimeter of the house don’t get warm enough–and not just next to a drafty window– you could dial back the radiator in the room with the thermostat, so that more heat is added to the system before it cycles off.
You also can by thermostatic radiator valves, Aub, though they are subject to the same system-level considerations I mentioned above. Thermostatic valves would be most useful in the upper-level zoned cooling scenario I mentioned, or to reduce temperature in a room that is chronically too warm. Unlike the heating system thermostat, however, thermostatic radiator valves can’t signal the boiler to add heat when a room cools too much.
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